Australia's best fish and chips. Gourmet Traveller
Bodhi's 30 years at the forefront of vegan cooking. delicious.
Tasmania's gin boom. NY Times
The rise and rise of Sydney's The Boathouse group. The Sydney Morning Herald
Jason Barratt takes over the pans at Paper Daisy. delicious.
The Estelle evolution continues. Good Food
Parisian bistros under threat. ABC
In France, chefs and art are meeting in a month long exhibition. Food and Wine Gazette
A critic's advice on how to complain in a restaurant. NY Times
The challenge of being a left-handed chef in a right-handed world. Eater
Think of Citirco in North Fitzroy as less of a pan-South American restaurant and more of a sweet neighbourhood eatery with a Latino spin, writes Gemima Cody for The Age Good Food. "The empanadas don't look quite as you expect... All three versions are particularly sizeable and square-ish. On the side is a chunky vinegary salsa of finely diced onions, chilli and tomatoes, which some will recognise as Chile's calling card, pebre... A smoked chilli-marinated spatchcock, meanwhile, is one of the best restaurant poultry moments I've had in an age. Dark crisp skin meets juicy, tender meat and a fresh and fiery kapallaq sauce made from yellow chillies and celery." (13/20)
Gemima also reviewed the icon that is Moroccan Soup Bar for The Age Good Food, a venue she believes deserves an Order of Australia (if that was possible for restaurants). "It's a rainbow of dolmades, beetroot and walnut dip, sometimes nutty cous cous wrapped in eggplant. There's the squeaky, sparkly haloumi salad, all bright citrus, herbs and onion. Preserved lemon, pickles and flavours of cinnamon and saffron spike endless combinations of pulses and grains and seasonal vegetables wrought into practiced stews, salads, soups and tagines. It all brackets the chickpea bake – layers of crisp pita bread, chickpeas, silky garlic labna and almonds caramelised in a sea of butter."
Terry Durack discovered "next-level vegan" at Paperbark for SMH Good Food. The team in the kitchen "build in richness through infused olive oils, and layer in umami through slow-roasting, marinating and fermenting, always pulling things back into balance with acidity. Beetroot is practically caramelised, laid over a lovely lemon aspen cream and scattered with ice plant and sea blight for a sea-salty crunch. The Insta-princess dish of organic mushrooms skewered onto twigs, charred over paperbark and served with macadamia cream, is utterly delicious." (15/20)
John Lethlean says there's room for improvement at Ficus for The Weekend Australian Magazine. "Cracking steamed asparagus from producer Torbay, in the Great Southern, is harmoniously paired with whipped feta, good oil and a sourdough/macadamia crumble. Happy days. But the presentation of a low-marbled Wagyu sirloin – an OK piece of meat, nicely cooked – with chips and commercial salad mix simply plonked on the plate is haute counter meal, an effort-free zone. The béarnaise is good. So too is the texture of a vanilla creme brûlée with raspberry sorbet. As you’d expect of a Frenchman." (3/5)
What's to come...
Barangaroo House Birthday Week: 15-22 February
Carriageworks Summer Night Market: 15 February
World Restaurant Awards: 18 February
One Plate for Two Good at Automata: 24 February
Chiswick Gin on the Lawn: Wednesday 13, 20, 27 February
Orange F.O.O.D. Week: 5-14 April
Noosa Food & Wine Festival: 16-20 May