Anthony Huckstep enjoys a "dependable" Italian meal at Matteo Downtown for delicious. "What sets it apart is the mozzarella bar. A handful of dishes build on the craft of New South Wales producer La Stella Latticini, its cheeses made and delivered daily – the pick sees stracciatella dotted with small, sweet prawns crudo. Among the pasta, al dente squid stars in squid-ink fregola topped with plump mussels and grape tomatoes and, although my pizza dough is a bit undercooked, the fresh tomato sauce provides a lovely base for the margherita, simply topped with basil leaves and fior di latte." (3/5)
John Lethlean reviews Hellenika in Brisbane, which he claims is an institution in the making, for The Australian. "Puffy, pillowy fritters of ultra-thin zucchini dusted with kefalograviera cows milk cheese, the crisp/chewy shells in stark contrast to the sweet, molten marrow inside. Fat worms of pale, sautéed and super sweet calamari dusted with oregano, giving it a tundra-like scent, served with a lemon cheek; a single, impeccable fillet of King George whiting, herb-crumbed and deep-fried. 'The Moment' comes, however, with the arrival of kritharaki, a wet orzo pasta dish that brings amazing harmony to the elements of crabmeat and stock, white wine and tomato: it is vibrant, acidic, powerful and truly one of the most delicious things I’ve eaten all year." (4/5)
Gemima Cody ventured into the budget end of the market, GO Noodle House for The Age Good Food, to discover that restaurant chains can serve their purpose well. "[GO] brings two less common noodle stars to the table in their signature seafood broth embellished with rice wine. The first is mi xian, the spaghetti-like rice noodles originating from China's Yunnan region that are having a moment globally, especially in New York. And, Chinese-Malaysian pan mee, the flat wheat-based ribbons." (13/20)
Terry Durack found degustation done differently at Arthur for SMH Good Food. "Coming two-by-two, the dishes succeed in building a narrative arc – or should that be ark – that has a beginning, middle and end. Next up is an almost juicy kangaroo tartare, its steeliness tarted up with the tang of bush tomato and pickled cukes, topped with a thatch of tiny potato straws. Its running mate counters the 3D flavours with torn clumps of fresh buffalo mozzarella, green tomatoes, fennel, and double-shelled broad beans, sauced with a bright green oil of fennel fronds and parsley." (14.5/20)
Pat Nourse visited "thoughtful, inventive" plant-based eatery Paperbark for Gourmet Traveller, where he found moments of "finger-lickin'" tastiness. "Chef Joey Astorga knows his way around a snack, and the first few things on his menu are among the best. He tops semolina and saltbush crackers with crisp saltbush leaves. He threads slivers of portobello mushroom onto eucalyptus twigs and grills them to make juicy skewers to swipe through a macadamia cream. He squirts potato batter into hot oil to make golden squiggles he then scatters with salt and freeze-dried vinegar, and offers as potato churros. These are very good things." Pat has left the magazine this week after 14 years. We'll miss his insight and eloquence.
Melbourne mourning death of Pellegrini's Sisto Malaspina. The Age | Melbourne Food and Wine
Barzaari Chippendale opens at The Old Clare Hotel. Broadsheet
Danish architect's grand plans for Sydney Fish Market. smh.com.au
Dan Hunter's chocolate range. Gourmet Traveller
Delicious magazine launches digital travel vertical. delicious.
Albert Adria's first venture outside Spain is set to sweeten up London. Food and Wine Gazette
How Brexit will impact foreign hospitality workers. Eater
Some tips for surviving the alcoholic excesses of the silly season. Eater