John Lethlean found St Hugo in the Barossa lacking pizzazz and a little short on regional identity in The Weekend Australian Magazine. “Today’s four courses – plus an add-on; the menu’s flexible like that – include octopus and purple potato with lemon verbena granita, a kind of octo-salad; an umami-rich white bean and shallot braise with nutty sunflower seeds and a finishing splash of grated, cured egg, explained as being “like a bean risotto”; a nicely rendered piece of sous-vide duck breast with radish cake – like lo bak go at yum cha – with a spiced coconut sauce that put me in mind of Sri Lankan aromas.” (3/5)
Terry Durack reviewed Little Bistro in Sydney for SMH Good Food. “The classic, considered, instinctively seasonal French/Italian/British menu goes down well, from the cold Claire de Lune oysters served with hot little faggots of sausage, to the grilled rump steak with fried potatoes and sauce foyot (a meaty bearnaise). There's a peppery, all-vegetable minestrone with nothing forced or contrived about it, and a crostini-inspired Tuscan chicken liver pâté, sealed with clarified butter and made fruity with vin santo.” (15/20)
Anthony Huckstep visited Nighthawk Diner for delicious. on Sunday saying Sydney has finally got the American diner it deserves. "The menu focuses on burgers and sandwiches – including a Philly cheesesteak and Miami Cuban – along with tacos. A soft hoagie-style bun hosts juicy buttermilk fried chicken, fried jalapeños, iceberg and a smoky barbecue sauce. There’s a double cheeseburger, but unless you have a defibrillator handy, opt for the more modest junior burger – a beef brisket patty with sweet pickles, American cheese and the signature Nighthawk sauce on a soft bun." Go, but don't tell your trainer. (3/5)
Dani Valent finds a bit of a gem at Flinders Street station in Green Light Diner for The Age Good Food. "If you are meeting important associates to get projects green lit, arrive early to have the Good Morning, a most excellent sandwich at any time of day. Drippy scrambled eggs, nicely cooked bacon, melty cheese and jalapeno mayo are just about held together by a sweet brioche bun. It's a two-napkin situation that requires private time."
Gemima Cody gets off to a bad start at Alter in Windsor for The Age Good Food (not yet online). "Our amuse is a baby carrot braised in dashi, painted with yoghurt and showered with bonito. It is tangy, rooty and fishy at once and probably not a great new discovery in the flavour venn diagram." And it doesn't get much better. "The hand-rolled noodles bedded under duck leg in a sweet soy-stained masterstock are stubby and limp, yielding to paste on impact. Brussels sprouts on the side, fried with lardons and chilli jam, are so intensely salty we leave them." (11/20) Ouch.
Aria unveils new menu from new executive chef Joel Bickford. delicious. Broadsheet
Jesse McTavish takes over kitchen at North Bondi Fish. Good Food
Alla Wolf-Tasker, regional legend. The Age Good Food
Could Burleigh Heads become Australia’s newest food hot spot? Good Food
Rooms with views. The best spots to eat and drink during Vivid. Gourmet Traveller
Where are they now? A look at some past Masterchef contestants 10 years on. delicious.
Charlie Carrington’s Colours by Atlas becomes an Ottolenghi-esque Colours Kitchen. Good Food
A new mega Fratelli Fresh opens at Sydney’s ICC. Good Food
Best bar, best mini bar, best brekky. Gourmet Traveller’s Australian Hotel Awards shortlist for the cream of the hospitality crop. Gourmet Traveller
The steak, the whole steak and nothing but the steak. Good Food
Scott Pickett will be all fired up at Matilda. Good Food
Natural wine or not? The Guardian
Zaha Hadid’s last work, the 780-room Morpheus hotel, opens in Macau. Wallpaper
The wedding’s been and gone but if you just can’t get enough this is a good read on the history of royal wedding cakes, including the latest one. Eater
Mario Batali under criminal investigation for alleged sexual misconduct. Eater
Gordon Ramsay to close “dated” Maze. The Guardian
This heartbreaking New York Times article about the desperation of our farmers. And anotherabout the decline of rural towns and the need for immigrants to keep them alive. The eyes of the world are upon us.