The neighbourhood restaurant is alive and well, writes Terry Durack for SMH Good Food after his visit to Boronia Kitchen in Gladesville. “Early bookings are after-school families, the parents engaging with the kids, doing taste tests on chicken and green vegetables, critiquing coloured crayon drawings... Later, it's couples and foursomes slipping into booths, their comfort-food buttons pressed by '90s-style confit duck, with a crusty duck meat croquette and almond puree, surrounded by peas and mint leaves.” (14.5/20)
Anthony Huckstep found things a little half baked (literally) at Ortzi for delicious. on Sunday. There was an oven failure during his visit and waitstaff who “were about as enthusiastic as an asthmatic sloth.” He’s not without hope, though. “There’s plenty of evidence to suggest good things will happen at Ortzi, especially given the pedigree of the founders, but getting the wood-fired oven hot enough for service really feels secondary to firing up the waitstaff.” (2/5)
Elsternwick might be better known for its babka than its barbecue but "broadly Cantonese" Yu Chu could change all that writes Dani Valent for The Age Good Food. "The duck is steamed, hung, glazed and roasted in a purpose-built rotating oven. The resulting meat is juicy, the fat rendered, the skin glossy and crisp, and flavours of five spice, spring onion and garlic permeate the flesh from skin to bone. Pork is available char siu barbecued, or roasted with shatter-crisp crackling."
Manu Fiedel popped into Ippudo in Melbourne for delicious. He loved the pork buns. "The buns themselves are fluffy, cloud-like morsels, steamed to sweet perfection and filled with a caramelised slice of pork belly, a crisp piece of lettuce and crowned with Japanese mayonnaise. They’re so good I could eat a dozen."
Gemima Cody loved the fit out of Ciao Cielo in Port Melbourne, and much (but not all) of the food in her review for The Age Good Food. "It's worth a visit just for the bubbling cauldron of goat, braised Sicilian-style, the meat bringing a perfect amount of musk to a stew with high-low accents of wild olives, sweet fennel and tomato, soaking cheesy soft polenta dumplings." (14/20)
Also in Melbourne, Besha Rodell checked out Mexican El Sabor for The Age Good Food. "The real treats lie with the more traditional Mexican dishes. The carnitas, served on tacos, are moist and porky and wonderful. The mole, served over chicken enchiladas, is deeply savoury, brimming with spices, nuts, and just a hint of bitter chocolate. Beef sopes get the texture of the masa flour base just right – just dense enough, just moist enough."
Matt Moran and Solotel to take Chophouse concept to Parramatta. Good Food
Besha Rodell on being anonymous. Gourmet Traveller
Melbourne's Espy to rise again. Good Food
LP's Quality Meats to open Bella Brutta pizzeria in Newtown. Good Food
Why veganism is not enough to save the planet. Good Food
Barangaroo House, designed by Collins and Turner, wins Commercial Architecture Award in AIA 2018 Awards. The Fifth Estate
How to order wine like a pro. Good Food
Jock Zonfrillo from Restaurant Orana in running for prestigious Basque Culinary Prize. Fine Dining Lovers
Global social media uproar as Prince Charles goes on Masterchef Australia... but doesn't eat anything. Business Insider