There was a lot of love for Quay 2.0 this week, no doubt with more to come.
Terry Durack was first cab off the ranks for SMH Good Food awarding the revamped Quay a whopping 19/20. "It begins, as so many good meals do, with an oyster – or rather, a smooth, rich oyster cream with a crisp oyster crackling made from the oyster frill, and dollops of oscietra caviar, dished up in an exquisite ceramic oyster shell. Gilmore's food connects you back, to oceans, gardens, farms. A still-life composition of rare red speckled snow peas and pea tendrils touched with green soybean miso butter and freeze-dried fish sauce is like grazing your way through the vegetable garden, picking off the tiniest and sweetest."
Pat Nourse was also enamoured in his review for Gourmet Traveller. "Gilmore has been playing with the combination of pork belly and scallops for a decade and a half. In its latest iteration the part of a richly fatty hunk of pork is played by a piece of smoked jowl, while the shellfish bounce now comes from fan-shell razor clams, in keeping with Quay's reputation for recherché ingredients. Why settle for abalone when you could get something served in almost no other restaurant in Australia, goes the thinking here. Shiitakes join the dots, and the whole thing is crowned with an airy puff of sea cucumber – perhaps the world's most expensive prawn cracker." He recommends taking the six-course tasting menu over the 10 and eschewing the drinks matches where there's "too much going on".
Anthony Huckstep tucked into the sangas at A1 Canteen for delicious. on Sunday but pronounced it so much more than a sandwich shop. "It’s an all-day eatery that’s all about great food and some cracking drinks, too... Curried scrambled eggs with sausages from LP’s Quality Meats are a highlight at breakfast. At lunch the sandwich offering is bolstered by the likes of kingfish with green sauce and baked celeriac with mushroom caramel purée. Top produce continues to shine at dinner in dishes such as burrata with ginger-fermented cabbage and clams with anchovy butter, while berry cheesecake makes a memorable finish." (4/5)
John Lethlean wasn't a fan of Sydney's Ortzi which he said had "all the aesthetic charm of a late-night bulk-billing clinic" in The Weekend Australian Magazine. Ouch. "The food, which arrives on bombproof, consistently cold white plates with all the presentation panache of a school canteen, is not bad. It’s just not … right. Artless. So little effort has gone into creating a package that justifies, for example, paying $20 for a stubby of Tassie cider. Or $110 for a steak." (1.5/5)
Dan Stock also had a doozy at Mr Crackles in Melbourne for delicious. "In terms of visceral, decadent pleasures that border on the carnal, pork crackling is damn near unbeatable. Like mainlining salt and fat to deliver a dopamine rush, this gloriously onomatopoeic crown to aSunday roast is an easy win for the home cook and restaurant chef alike. Which is to say a shop specialising in the stuff (a) is onto a good thing and (b) better get it right." They don't. (1/5)
Gemima Cody was at Master Den's Poppu Uppu, Simon Denton's temporary shabu shabu restaurant for The Age Good Food. "It's a pretty user-friendly experience. For two (that's a minimum) your only major decision involves choosing between the beef, seafood or mushroom set. That said, there's nice flex: snacks to start, noodles to add, premium beef cuts. Possibly nicest of all is the drinks list, set out in three pages of wine, sake and beer, with a small bracket of each matched to whichever menu you've chosen." (14.5/20)
Jessi Singh bringing his "unauthentic Indian" cooking to 4Fourteen site in Surry Hills. Good Food
Armando Percuoco exits Buon Ricordo, selling business to long-time head chef. Good Food
Balla, The Star's flagship Italian diner, has closed. Good Food
Drink a coffee on 3 August and help end homelessness. Street Smart
Nigella Lawson to have her cake and eat it too at Margaret River Gourmet Escape. Perth Now
Andrew McConnell calls it quits on St Kilda's Supernormal Canteen. Good Food