John Lethlean reviewed Chippendale's A1 Canteen for The Weekend Australian Magazine. "The chef’s growing maturity as a restaurateur is evident at this inner-Sydney venue, an old building that’s been stylishly reinterpreted... The real joy, however, is in the execution of food... Depending on your choices, you may see Japanese or Middle Eastern influences, but nothing is less than original. Sliced bonito, for example, marinated in dashi and tamari, torched and set on a luxe emulsion of poached egg, oil, katsuobushi and sherry vinegar, with malt vinegar pickled onion on top. Or a light and fluffy, subtly spiced blood cake made with apple that caramelises to a crisp sheen in the pan and is finished with pickled beetroot and distinctively fragrant rosemary oil." (4/5)
O Tama Carey's Lankan Filling Station won over Anthony Huckstep in delicious. on Sunday. "The menu is centred around hoppers, the lattice-edged, bowl-shaped savoury pancakes native to Sri Lanka, made to be torn and swiped through an array of vibrant and heavenly spiced curries. But first choose your hopper – with or without egg – and curries such as the standout sour red tamarind prawn and sweet-spiced dry mutton curry. Add raita and a sambol for good measure, the sweet and sour seeni (onion and tamarind) sambol, say, or the green pol (coriander, ginger and coconut) and a side of dhal you’ll dream about." (4/5)
Pat Nourse was equally enamoured of Lankan Filling Station for Gourmet Traveller. "Southern Asian food is not one of the things at which Sydney restaurants particularly excel. But in Carey it finds a capable and vigorous champion. A reader, a traveller and a person blessed with imagination, but also a hard-working chef who runs her kitchens with rigour, and relishes the feel of a knife in her hand, and the roar of a serious wok-burner. I could tell you about her years at Billy Kwong, or remind you of the deftness and endless invention of her menus at Berta, but the only thing that you really need to know is that O Tama Carey is a hell of a cook."
Terry Durack was at Poly, Mat Lindsay's long awaited sibling for Ester for SMH Good Food. "Flavours are big and bold, carried by fat in all its forms – duck fat, butter, oil, cheese. Flat garlic bread is warm, puffy and smells good, stuffed with a green mulch of young garlic. Blood pie hails from an impressive bloodline, heir apparent to Ester's renowned blood sausage sanga. A tennis ball of earthy black pudding wrapped in dark, malty rough-puff pastry, it comes with splodges of mustard, and a frizz of herbs. Ridiculously good." (15.5/20)
Gemima Cody made a couple of visits to Cape at Cape Schanck Resort on the Mornington Peninsula for The Age Good Food finding both hits and misses. "The corn-fed chicken breast is perfectly cooked, the sauce rich and sticky, tarragon-fragrant confit legs deliciously captured in a filo roll, but my charred cos lettuce is chewy and olive green versus my friend's still lightly crisp version another night that made more sense. Do you judge Cape on its best night, or its worst? The price is the same." (14/20)
Besha Rodell headed to the Northern Rivers for her New York Times column, visiting a trio of restaurants around Byron Bay - Fleet, Shelter and Paper Daisy - and discovering for herself why so many young talented chefs and hospitality workers are making the sea/tree change. "There’s a real sense of place to much of this food, in the use of local ingredients and in the culture of healthy eating that has long been a part of Byron’s dining ethos. There’s nut milk with the salted fish at Paper Daisy, macadamia nut butter under the roasted pumpkin at Fleet and an almond paste accompanying the line-caught mulloway at Shelter."
As our politicians tore themselves apart in Canberra last night, Gourmet Traveller held its annual restaurant awards in Sydney, naming Quay as Restaurant of the Year, Laura at Point Leo Estate as New Restaurant of the Year and awarding Josh Niland from Saint Peter the peer-voted Chef of the Year award. Here at The Cru we're extremely proud of our clients who've earned well-deserved gongs including Orana which came in at No.3 on the Top 100 list with three stars, Bentley (No.10), Automata (No.19), Cirrus (No.24), Aria (No.28), Monopole (No.42), Biota (No.62), Bea (No.92) and Yellow (No.96). Gourmet Traveller
Jessi Singh to open Don't Tell Aunty in Surry Hills. Good Food, Broadsheet
Brent Savage to conduct a vegetarian masterclass at Carriageworks as part of its Chef Series.Broadsheet
Intercontinental Hotel Group will open 170-room Voco Hotel in Lilydale in 2021. Broadsheet
Luke Mangan pulls out of Asia. Business Insider
A feature length Anthony Bourdain documentary is in the works. Eater
Is the era of the white male restaurant critic coming to an end? Washington Post
Dale DeGroff, cocktail king. Good Food
Why Dave Chang's Majordomo in LA is serving plain fruit for dessert. Eater
The world's best cafes for lovers of design. Wallpaper