Australia's newest food festival, The Curated Plate, to debut on the Sunshine Coast.
Chase Kojima and Victor Liong join forces on a new restaurant. Broadsheet
How the Negroni took over the world. Departures
Accor takes Tribe Hotels global. Wayfarer
Cornersmith pops up at the MCA. Gourmet Traveller
Where Nigella ate. Broadsheet
Are occasional dinners and events, such as Barn by Biota, the new gastronomic trend? The Australian
MAD to establish a permanent education centre, Gastro-Akademi, supported by the Danish government, to teach chefs to become more humane, responsible and sustainable. New York Times
#MeToo bites: Mario Batali has surrendered his stake in all of his restaurants. The New York Times
Why Philadelphia put a ban on cashless restaurants. Eater
The "new" Flying Fish, relocated to The Star, has lost its mojo, writes Anthony Huckstep for delicious. "Yellowfin tuna arrives lightly seared yet stone cold, suggesting it was done before service. Kingfish is sliced at the wrong angle, making it tougher than the creamy joy it should be, while scallops are also fridge cold. Blood warm, please, to release the oils. Southern calamari, nicely cooked just under as one expects, is overwhelmed by a bitterness in the squid-ink butter. We don’t finish it. Whole barbecued John Dory is overcooked and dry, even though it’s still on the bone, and it, too, is overwhelmed – here by the rich pistou sauce. And yet barramundi is cooked beautifully – crisp skin, silky, pearlescent flesh – and it’s simply served with Savoy cabbage, yuzu oyster cream and chervil." (2.5/5)
Eliza Food & Wine is the type of place where you can share a few snacks and a cocktail or stay all night, through to the cheese, says Terry Durack for SMH Good Food. "As ever, snacks are more interesting than the entrees. Here, the ubiquitous cured fish listing is four tongues of ocean trout, topped with furls of daikon, fresh shiso leaves, a little black garlic and a few pearls of trout roe; pleasant enough without any great character. [Owner-chef Jeremy] Bentley appears to have kept the good bits of his classical British/French training (precision, technique, timing) while losing the need to overwork or contrive. So main courses are more relaxed, with 12-hour lamb shoulder coming as a soft, homely mass above eggplant puree and chunks of sweet-and-sour eggplant; thoroughly likeable, and good to share." (14/20)
Gemima Cody reviewed Lume for The Age Good Food, where young gun chef John Rivera has taken over the pans from the departing Shaun Quade. "As dinner unfolds you see how Rivera earned Quade's faith. The biggest tick goes to an elegant tightrope walk of heirloom tomatoes and delicate cheese curds shrouded by a jellied tomato-crab dashi, all sweet crustacean, tang and the perfume of Geraldton wax. It's a signature to be proud of. Less restrained, but showing Rivera's character, Kangaroo Island marron is awash with a smoky, spicy, rich party of macadamia milk infused with smoked padron peppers and sour mulberries." (15/20)
John Lethlean reviewed the loosely Vietnamese Liberte in Albany WA forThe Weekend Australian. "Some things work insanely well: I’m looking at you, rice noodles laced with chilli, garlic and beautiful, sweet crab, peppered with toothsome fried shallot and, quite curiously, a dusting of parmesan and chopped chive. If only it were all so good. Samphire tartare sauce is slightly too cute an idea to go with salt and pepper squid — which comes to the table, in any case, completely under-fried, the batter still wet; it’s sent back. And excellent quality charred quail doesn’t really shine under a soft, thick mattress of hazelnut satay sauce." (3/5)
What's to come...
Kylie Kwong in conversation with Sam Sifton at Carriageworks: 13 March
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival: until 24 March
Tasting Australia: 5-14 April
Orange F.O.O.D. Week: 5-14 April
Noosa Food & Wine Festival: 16-20 May
Did you know?
That cauliflower is the vegetable most likely to be mistaken for a piece of meat. And that fishless fish is a thing. Read about these and other insights in the "Vegan Food Encyclopedia for Curious Omnivores". Grub Street
The Cru attended...
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival's House of Food and Wine. Highlights from the day of talks and ideas was New York Times Food editor Sam Sifton interviewing the NYT's Australia Fare reviewer Besha Rodell on anonymity in restaurant reviewing. She wore a mask. Martin Benn and Vicki Wild talked to Jill Dupleix about creativity and their new restaurant project at 80 Collins Street. The duo, relocated to Melbourne, say they're at their most creative right now having drawn a line under Sepia, and starting from scratch on their next restaurant. We can't wait to see the results. The festival continues until 24 March.