It's been an exciting week in the world of food
The World Restaurant Awards handed out their inaugural gongs overnight in Paris, with South Africa’s Wolfgat, located in a remote fishing village north west of Cape Town, winning the title of both Restaurant of the Year and Off-Map Destination of the Year (and tripling its Instagram following in less than 24 hours). We’re especially thrilled that our client Inua in Tokyo was awarded Arrival of the Year. Congratulations to Thomas Frebel and his team.
Full list of World Restaurant Award winners. World Restaurant Awards
World Restaurant Awards not quite as inclusive as they were cracked up to be. Eater
Nigella Lawson has always been much more than a domestic goddess, writes Besha Rodell.NY Times
Netflix releases trailer for star-studded series of Dr. Seuss's Green Eggs and Ham. Eater
The contemporary Santa Monica hotel that's putting as much attention into F&B as the building itself, luring rising star chefs Jessica Koslow and Gabriela Cámara. LA Times
How will Christina Tosi's Milk Bar chain hold its small-shop charm as it enters the big league?NY Times
The restaurateurs pushing to ban phones and iPads in their restaurants. SMH
Staff allegedly underpaid at Ezard and Gingerboy restaurants. SMH
The Three Blue Ducks Rosebery turns Orange to launch Orange F.O.O.D week
Terry Durack checked out the relocated Flying Fish, now at The Star, for SMH Good Food where Peter Robertson is rattling the pans. "At night, the big players hit up the market-priced seafood, teamed with XO or Malaysian-style black pepper sauce. The crab is woo-hoo great, but the sauce is too polite, reduced and sticky to deliver that joyful, peppery, buttery, messiness of great pepper crab. Puffy little fried mantou buns come with it, toasty and fun. Robertson and team cleverly weave Asian flavours through the fabric of the menu, with pandan – the vanilla of the Asian kitchen – welcome as a fragrant, fetchingly green cream beneath a troppo mix of coconut ice, mango sorbet, young coconut and diced mango." (15/20)
It's important to know who a restaurant is far, says Gemima Cody, reviewing Tuan Tuan for The Age Good Food. In this case it's Melbourne's homesick international students. Tuan Tuan's specialty is the Macanese trio of rice which "lands with its three colours of sauce – cheese, pesto and tomato, laid out like the Italian flag – all boiling with menace. The sugary tomato goo conceals strips of crumbed chicken, the pesto, fried mushrooms, and mixed with the cheese you'll find chunks of seafood extender and prawns. A layer of rice underpins the whole Italian-Chinese situation, and while it does resemble something conceived many negronis deep, the carby, rich, salty-sweet comfort factor is remarkably high." (13.5/20)
John Lethlean found a certain meanness and a lack of hospitality soured the experience at Montalto on the Mornington Peninsula, which he reviewed for The Weekend Australian Magazine. "Apart from an inexplicably atrocious iceberg lettuce salad that had been sitting in its pool of buttermilk dressing so long that the leaves had turned translucent, the food here is mostly delicious. It’s more the parsimony of the place; the mean approach to portions and how certain decisions send unsavoury messages." Having to pay for bread despite $46 main courses didn't go down well. (3/5)
In her glowing review of Lankan Filling Station for her Australia Fare column in The New York Times Besha Rodell asserts that Asian food has every right to be priced similarly to European cuisine. "What is the worth of such a deep culinary history? And who gets to decide that? Lankan Filling Station is one of many incredible Sri Lankan restaurants in Australia, but it is also writing a thrilling new chapter in what that cuisine means here and now. If anything, this food is too cheap."
What's to come...
One Plate for Two Good at Automata: 24 February
Chiswick Gin on the Lawn: Wednesday 20, 27 February
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival: 8-24 March
Tasting Australia: 5-14 April
Orange F.O.O.D. Week: 5-14 April
Noosa Food & Wine Festival: 16-20 May
The Cru is watching...
Chef's Table: The Sixth Season (well, the trailer at least). Dario Cecchini, Sean Brock, Asma Khan and Mashama Bailey step into the Chef's Table spotlight in this extraordinarily cinematic Netflix series. Watch the trailer