John Lethlean was underwhelmed by Poly for The Australian, which he also found a bit pricey. "The one dish that really sings is a half wood-grilled Murray cod: the fish is of marvellous quality and freshness with a fruity/sticky dressing and (too coarsely ground) Sichuan pepper. Teamed with a lettuce “dish” combining layers of gem, cos, peas, macadamias and a horseradish cream, this is what the food experience should have been: lively, fresh, caring." (3/5)
Terry Durack was charmed by Continental CBD's "mixed bag" menu for SMH Good Food, which he says will suit the suits. "Being open all afternoon gives Continental a real point of difference – you can turn up at 3pm for charcuterie or cheeses, or a bright, oily, fruity salad of bull peppers, Turkish peppers and whippy ricotta that's spiked with burnt honey, splodges of olive jam and fresh basil leaves. My pick of the charcuterie is LP's lush, lightly smoky kangaroo mortadella, served with olives and pickled peppers." (14.5/20)
Gemima Cody visited "intriguing" Wa Kenbo for The Age Good Food. "There's tortellini here but not as you know it. Wonton skins have more flex than the Italian norm; pumpkin filling is cooked nimono-style, poached in dashi broth, and a crush of candy-sweet peas is washed in a soy cream foam with the rooty notes of burdock. Before this you might have sunk teeth through lacy batter into a creamy lobe of uni. In your glass could be a margarita citrified with Japanese sudachi, or, a 2016 Weingut Brundlmayer gruner veltliner. " (15/20)
Gemima also wrote a lovely Icon review for The Age Good Food, on Melbourne's Pellegrini's, published on the day the city stopped for the state funeral of Sisto Malaspina. "This entire Icon column was started for the Pellegrinis of Melbourne - places that have shaped the city. But while this was many non-Italians' introduction to espresso and spaghetti, Pellegrini's true claim to fame is the way it moves, not what it serves. The policy has always been one of an open door, simplicity and affordability. When the Pellegrini brothers passed the torch to their ex-Florentino workmates Malaspina and Nino Pagrazio in 1974, almost nothing changed, and aside from now accepting cards, nothing has since."
Delicious unveils its Top 100 in NSW, VIC and QLD. delicious.
James Halliday reveals his Top 100 Wines of 2018. The Australian
Melbourne farewells Sisto Malaspina. The Age
The pros and cons of China's thirst for Aussie wines. The Australian
Could pea burgers be on the menu at Rockpool Dining Group? SMH
Usain Bolt launches a restaurant in London. Eater London
How Silicon Valley became obsessed with sourdough. Eater
Is Yelp's heyday over? Eater
Eater's guide to London's best pub grub. Eater London
Italy's new Michelin stars. Eater