How drought conditions are changing Australia's fine dining menu. Australian Financial Review
Doggie bags come with a legal waiver in some Sydney restaurants. The Sydney Morning Herald
Diners have forgotten their table manners and the restaurant industry is not happy. Good Food
How science commentator Dr Karl eats. Good Food
The vegan roast that started an online war. delicious.
Falling hook, line and sinker for oysters. Broadsheet
Play cheese some music and it will taste better. Good Food
What Damien Cave learned from two of the Australia's top chefs. NYTimes
The Nomafication of Nordic Food. Eater
Massimo Bottura's Dubai restaurant. Eater
McDonald's chicken nuggets go vegan. Inc.
Reindeer powder and Arctic turnip crepes: Helsinki’s new food scene. The New York Times
In restaurants, diversity is smarter business and much more delicious. Food and Wine
The implications of when a restaurant's toxic culture reaches its customers. Eater
In the era of child chefs, is there such a thing as a Food Prodigy? The New York Times
Hudson Yards is a big deal in NYC. Eater
Food and Wine's list of 'Great Restaurants to Work For'. Wouldn't it be great to see this replicated in Australia?
Terry Durack reviewed Israeli/Middle Eastern restaurant Tayim - a hotel restaurant in The Rocks that's trying hard not to be a hotel restaurant - for SMH Good Food. "There's a simple charm about the eight small dishes that make up the 'Tayim plate', designed for two to share. Small saucers hold a lovely, light hummus studded with chickpeas; glossy tahini; creamy labne; super-crisp little frisbees of falafel; lightly pickled vegetables; and marinated olives tossed with coriander and caraway seeds, chilli and lemon rind. Depth is added with a sinisterly dark salata matbucha (literally 'cooked salad'), a reduced concasse of capsicum, tomato, green chilli, garlic, olive oil and paprika that I need by my side from here on in. There's bread, of course – a pile of pita bread chopped into small triangles that feels a bit lifeless. Some warmth or scorch would have been good." (13.5/20)
Anthony Huckstep had a damn good time at Goryon-San in Surry Hills for delicious. "Seats at the counter overlooking the chefs twirling their sticks are the pick. Limber up your taste buds with edamame in a sweet garlic and chilli soy sauce, then dive into yasaimaki – vegetables wrapped in pork belly. Lettuce swaddled in a thin sheet of pork and seared till crisp is the winner. Sukiyaki of enoki and kale wrapped in wagyu with a slow-poached egg for dipping is a must, while, for yakitori lovers, there’s the gamut of chicken, too. Don’t make the mistake of sticking to a serious series of skewers, though. Perhaps the best dish sees light pork gyoza wading in a tonkatsu broth with cabbage, sesame and shallot." (3/5)
John Lethlean was a big fan of "unpretentious" Herringbone in Adelaide for The Weekend Australian. "'Bollito misto terrine' – a nice riff on Piedmont’s (sadly) seldom-seen specialty of boiled mixed meats – consists of tongue, chicken and cotechino sausage, loosely bound in gelatine, served on a chunky plate with salsa verde, lightly pickled baby turnip, cucumber and onion, and what appears to be house-made mostarda, mustard fruits. It comes with charry garlic focaccia. It’s elegant/rustic, and interpreted really well. Same, same for a plate of firm, nicely cured ocean trout with a 'tarator' garnish of tahini yoghurt, diced red onion, parsley, sumac, toasted walnut, salmon roe and a hint of chilli and lemon. Clever, simple food, good produce." (3.5/5)
Gemima Cody reviewed Scott Pickett's third iteration of Estelle for The Age Good Food, which she says isn't a reinvention so much as a shuffling of the furniture. "On plate, you're looking at a best-of album from menus past. Kick off with the billowing crunchy clouds of puffed veal tendons you may once have had with French onion dip at Estelle 2.0. Now they ping sweet and smoky with a sugar, dashi and coffee dust. Do you remember the parmesan cream that once filled pillows as an ESP amuse? It's now a salty, funky sauce (unnecessarily truffled). The hand-rolled macaroni, a stayer from 2014, still comes coated in a parmesan froth, but a cacio e pepe twist and fine crisps of pork jowl kick it excellently into 2019... One of the great things about reinventions like this is you get the excitement of the new with the benefit of experience." (15.5/20)
Gemima also reviewed Bamboo House for Good Food's Icon Review (don't we love these?), where the the following is fierce, and those who are regulars mean business. "Peking duck, their calling card, appears tableside, before being whisked off and rapidly assembled into pancakes with properly high ratio of crisp, glassy skin to juicy meat. You want to ask for the stars of the wheat-growing north. They still labour over silver thread bread here – a bright white loaf that separates into fluffy Silly String when pulled apart. The northern beef potstickers strike the holy balance between crunchy golden tops, soft, steamed bellies and juicy filling. But the Cantonese stars (prawn in spinach wrappers, siu mai), and Shanghai's soupy xiao long bao stand up, too."
Hobart is in a sweet spot, writes Besha Rodell in The New York Times and Dier Makr is at its heart. "A decent portion of the meal is dedicated to snacking, the chips and dip followed by tiny tarts of tomatillo topped with creamy kingfish brandade, then raw carrots and radishes alongside a pool of labneh topped with an umami-rich paste made from fermented crickets and charred allium. Further into the evening, a bowl of dashi appeared, dotted with mysterious dark parcels, some of which turned out to be zucchini, others dumplings made from leek and mussels. I’d expected to be wooed by the latter, but the dumpling wrappers were a little tough and clumsy. The revelation came with the zucchini, which was so soft it collapsed in on itself and revealed a plush, luxurious quality I’d never known in zucchini before."
What's to come...
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival: ends 24 March
Surfing Chefs for SurfAid at Three Blue Ducks, Byron Bay: 31 March
Byron Harvest for Big Scrub at Three Blue Ducks, Rosebery: 4 April
Tasting Australia: 5-14 April
Orange F.O.O.D. Week: 5-14 April
Noosa Food & Wine Festival: 16-20 May
The Curated Plate, Sunshine Coast: 8-11 August