Welcome back to Intel for 2019
There's been plenty of action in the international awards scene, some amazing reads and the reviewers are back in their seats. We've moved things around in this newsletter, and hope you enjoy it. Please feel free to share with friends and colleagues or get them to sign up via our website.
Kylie Kwong to close Billy Kwong after 19 years. delicious.
The paradox between a food delivery duopoly and the restaurant economy. SMH
Dimmi rebrands as The Fork. Food Service News
'Prosecco-like?': EU digs in over fight to rename Australian wine and cheese. We could be seeing 'feta-like' on the shelves. SMH
Gelatissimo creates ginger beer gelato. hit.com.au
World's 50 Best Restaurants #1s off the list, along with other huge changes. Eater
World Restaurant Awards short list, with only Saint Peter from Australia. Restaurant Awards
Surprise winners and unhappy losers in Michelin's latest guide to France. France24
The good, the bad and the ugly: new technology promises to tell us everything about the food we eat. Grub Street
First review from NYT Californian critic Tejal Rao. NY Times
An Australian brings Americana to his NY Bar. NY Times
Terry Durack embraced the outdoors (well, courtyard) at Totti's, Merivale's new Italian eatery at The Royal, Bondi for SMH Good Food. "It's worth sharing a pasta or two – especially a beautifully al dente rigatoni sauced with a gravel of pork, cooked in milk for a nonna-like sweetness, under a storm of grated parmigiana reggiano, or a fruity, tomatoey stew of Sardinian fregola, the pearls of semolina pasta awash with calamari and mussels. Chilli oil adds a lick of warmth to polenta studded with fresh corn kernels, and there's a perky little salad of soft oakleaf and pickled nectarine in a sharp shallot dressing." (14.5/20)
Gemima Cody was at Sebastian Beach Grill and Bar for The Age Good Food where it's all about cooking with fire. "Robbins has a knack for finding a tight acid balance with his condiments, and they can make a dish. A rubble of lightly seared calamari curls is a little blah until you mix them with a squid-inked romesco, all peppery earth and ocean at once. A wedge of firm, sweet pumpkin washed in a tangy, nutty pool of creme fraiche, walnuts and toasted seeds winds up being a dish of the night." (14/20)
John Lethlean found a "dog's breakfast of dull mismatched furnishings" and a "tendency to overthink dishes" at Voyager Estate in Margaret River for The Weekend Australian. Ouch. "A really nice piece of roasted fish comes with an island of squid bits and mussels jumbled in a dissolving cassava 'sand' resulting in a fascinating, evolving texture; the added karkalla and kombu seems gratuitous and the spirulina added to dashi poured at the table – creating a blue-coloured 'sea' – faintly immature." (3/5)
Besha Rodell celebrated traditional and contemporary Italian-Australian hospitality for her Australia Fare column in The New York Times, reviewing two restaurants on opposite sides of the same Carlton street. The Olive Jar has house-made pasta on display and an owner who serenades his guests while Capitano, run by "industry darlings" Banjo Harris Plane and Casey Wall, trades in "modern nostalgia".
What's to come...
Lunar New Year at Bodhi Restaurant Bar: 5 February
World Restaurant Awards: 18 February
Orange F.O.O.D. Week: 5-14 April
Noosa Food & Wine Festival: 16-20 May
The Cru is reading...
Lisa Abend’s essay ‘Welcome to the food circus: Power, publicity and cooking’. This fascinating read has been shortlisted for the Long-Form Journalism award in the inaugural World Restaurant Awards. And we’re thrilled to be mentioned in it as Australia’s agency of choice for chefs and restaurateurs who want to tell their story to the world. Fool