Pat Nourse found good times, ace value and great booze at Kingdom of Rice for Gourmet Traveller. "Take prahok ktis, a gooey mixture of minced pork and fermented fish paste, coarse in texture and studded with pea eggplant. Served with raw snake beans, crinkle-cut carrot, cucumber, green tomato and apple eggplant, to the eye it resembles the incendiary Thai nam prik relishes. But on the palate it's gentle and coconut-creamy in its comforts rather than fiery – more like the lesser-seen lon dishes of central plains Thailand. I would happily eat it with everything on the menu. For a fresher, brighter opening option, svay kchey, wedges of green mango with chilli salt, can't be beat."
Anthony Huckstep reviewed new pizzeria Bella Brutta for delicious. which is headed by Luke Powell and backed by hospitality heavyweights Elvis Abrahanowicz, Sarah Doyle and Joe Valore. "Armed with his own smallgoods, he’s slinging flavoursome discs with front-of-house whiz and partner Tania Houghton.... But it’s not just about the pizza. The wine list is a ripping representation of what to drink right now, the cocktails are cracking and the antipasti A-grade. Turkish peppers are roasted and served on romesco. Basil and shaved green tomatoes top stracciatella, while celery, sunflower seeds, celtuce and pecorino make for one of the best salads in town, and the freshly made bombolone (cream-filled doughnuts) could well be Sydney’s finest too." (4/5)
Terry Durack also found a happy mix of South East Asian influences on the menu at Chubby Cheeks in Paddington for SMH Good Food. “Classic dishes hide behind dumbed-down titles – "seared Hokkaido scallop betel leaf" channels Thai miang kum, and Vietnam's banh xeo becomes "crispy turmeric rice crepe" ($22). The paper-thin pancake is folded over a crumble of minced pork, prawn and bean shoots, along with spanking-fresh herbs and lettuce leaves and a dipping bowl of ar-jard, that light, spicy rice vinegar sauce that makes everything taste better.” (14/20)
John Lethlean takes The Australian readers on a journey through a meal at “Italian to its bones” Bistecca in Sydney – and the stringent rules around it. “I love Italy and its restaurants but the steak at this singular Sydney restaurant, Black Angus from the Riverina, and the way it is cooked over oak embers, charcoal and olive wood is, objectively, a far better result… At the hearth, a chef will shuffle embers and with a cocktail of flame, smoke and radiant heat, your steak will be grilled… sirloin on one side of the bone and fillet the other… medium rare unless you request otherwise; the meat will have some crust and residual char from the flames while the muscle, sliced from the bone, will be firm but juicy and very tasty.” (4/5)
Gemima Cody found there's a market for overindulgent and instagrammable food at Cheeks for The Age Good Food. "Every one of them [dishes] is a week at the gym on a plate and a gallon of water or beer on the side. A solid inch of cured bacon topped with a lacy fried egg might be a special. Dry-aged duck, cleaved into snappy-skinned sections, is pink fleshed but paired with smoked hoisin and leeks that seem to add more salt than contrast." (13/20)
Jessi Singh brings a splash of Bollywood glamour and his "unauthentic Indian" food to Don’t Tell Aunty in Surry Hills. Good Food
Three Blue Ducks crew add a touch of madness to Byron Bay with Locura. Good Food
The bistros and wine bars taking over Paris. Good Food
Lucky Peach co-founder Peter Meehan to (sort of) fill the gap left by Jonathan Gold at the LA Times. Grub Street
Tourism Australia’s latest ad invites travellers to the real set of Australia. Travel Weekly
Meet David Zilber, Noma's maestro of fermentation. Grub Street
The Tokyo eatery serving one dish, one wine and one soundtrack. Traveller
The Cru is reading...
In My Bloodby Bo Bech, acclaimed chef at Geist in Copenhagen. Part memoir, part contemporary autobiography,In My Bloodis described byFood and Wine Gazetteas “an original collaboration of images and ideas that go beyond the kitchen shelf and bypasses a world saturated with coffee table cookbooks. It’s innate style assures it a place in any Art Book collection.” It’s available in Australia exclusively fromBooks for Cooks.