In the week that saw the world's leading chefs and restaurateurs descend on Singapore for the World's 50 Best Restaurants Awards, and plenty of commentators debating the value and legitimacy of the awards, locally there were quite a few notable closures. Read on...
Billy Kwong will have its final service this Sunday. Broadsheet
In the week of the World's 50 Best Restaurant awards, Massimo Bottura takes over the pages ofGood Food
Potts Point's Paper Bird to close. Good Food
After 15 years, Oscillate Wildly is also out. But fear not, the dégustation restaurant may re-appear in some way in the near future. Gourmet Traveller.
Darlinghurst's Izakaya Chaco Bar set to split into two venues, focused on yakitori and ramen respectively. Broadsheet.
Attica tumbled in the restaurant rankings. So what? The Age
Restaurants on their favourite people. Are you one of them? Melbourne Food and Wine Festival
Mauro Colagreco's restaurant Mirazur on the French Riviera takes top place on World's 50 Best Restaurants list, while the new Noma comes in second. Eater
Why the World's Best Restaurants list is controversial. Time
Did World's 50 Best change its ranking system to protect chef egos? Eater
Restaurant co-op structure a healthier place to work. Eater
In business since 1973, Boffins in Canberra has a new look, new chef and new menu, writes John Lethlean for The Weekend Australian Magazine. "A starter called sashimi arrives promptly: six tablets of farmed kingfish scattered enthusiastically with white sesame, garlic chips, shiso leaves and hot green chilli, Nobu-style, sliced a bit thickly and too hot. There’s a ponzu dipping sauce. The heat is back, and more appropriately, for a tom yum-ish udon noodle coconut bisque, heavily flavoured with ginger, lemongrass and Thai basil. The protein is subtle: small prawns and crab meat. It’s an intense, viscous and likeable soup." (3/5)
Terry Durack was at Mary's Underground for SMH Good Food. "The menu is extravagant, laden with caviar and lobster, listing well-sourced produce such as saddleback pork and pasture-raised duck from Tathra Place in the Southern Tablelands. In spite of the same kitchen turning out burgers for Mary's upstairs, there's real cooking happening here from exec chef Jimmy Garside and head chef Joel Wootten, not just plonking-on-a-plate...Best in show is the duck, dry-aged in its Amsterdam red-light window for a week, brushed with red wine vinegar and maltose, spit-roasted and interleaved with fragrant, sweet/tart persimmon." (15/20)
Gemima Cody reviewed Pope Joan, which has now found a permanent home beneath the Sofitel Hotel in Melbourne's CBD, for The Age Good Food. "Beyond brunch, this is easy access dining, but with high quality trim...Sink into a horseshoe booth and cover working wounds with a Milawa chicken schnitzel, all crisp crumbs drenched end to end in garlic butter. Or rainbow trout, its bones tweezed, skin crisped and earthy flesh offset by a literal rainbow of shaved fennel and carrots in a tangy, saffron-stained escabeche pickle." (14/20)
What's to come...
A night in Lebanon, Barzaari Chippendale: 3 July
Aria x Amaru Collaboration Dinner: 8 July Aria (Sydney), 15 July at Amaru (Melbourne)
Inn Talks, Paddo Inn: 9 July
Winter Fire Festival, Orange: 2-4 August
The Curated Plate, Sunshine Coast: 8-11 August
Seafood Series with Lennox Hastie and Rick Stein at Bannisters Port Stephens: 11 August
#CookforSyria event at Nomad: 12 August