From Kensington Street to Barangaroo: Sydney's newest food pockets. SMH Good Food
Martin Benn and Vicki Wild's new Melbourne venture announced. The Australian
Ex Noma chef Hugh Allen takes on top role at Vue de monde. Hospitality Magazine
Bands and comedians unite for gig to save Sydney nightlife. Time Out
WeChat is shaping the dining landscape in New York, without most New Yorkers even knowing.Eater NY
A Guide to the Restaurants of Netflix’s ‘Chef’s Table’. Eater
Joe Beef owner David McMillan on his new found sobriety. Bon Appetit
The man behind Wolfgat. Food and Wine Gazette
In the US, meal kit services are starting to lose their shine. Eater
The land where kale is king (and we're not talking smoothies). New York Times
Terry Durack embraced the food of the Levant at Barzaari Chippendale for SMH Good Food. "Much of this food crosses borders, highlighting the similarities between neighbours such as Syria, Egypt, Cyprus and Lebanon, rather than the differences. Dips are of smoky, lush eggplant; rich and nutty hummus; and cute little minarets of garlicky toum; all ready to slather on a must-order puffy slab of pita bread scattered with black nigella seeds. Fresh-as southern calamari is a compelling version of the cliche; dusted with rice flour and fried into golden nautilus curls that play off an aerated buttermilk and tarama cream dusted with lountza (Cypriot dried pork loin)." (14/20)
Anthony Huckstep visited Arthur in Surry Hills for delicious. where chef Tristan Rosier has a new take on the degustation. "Each course arrives as two dishes to share, blurring the tasting menu ethos. Rich twice-cooked lamb belly with blistered shishito peppers, for instance, has a sidekick of green beans, cucumber and leeks with verjuice, while the skinseared bonito, arriving with a burrata dish, epitomises the chef’s finesse and bravery in partnering ingredients that are not normally bedfellows. Lined up next to sweet slices of plum and sorrel, the clean raw flesh and smoky charred skin are accented by a drizzle of wagyu fat. Stunning." (4/5)
Everything old is new again at Napier Quarter writes Gemima Cody forThe Age Good Food, where the new head chef is actually the former chef Eileen Horsnell returned after two years at two-hatted Lume. "Horsnell's surprises hit like sneak assassins. Her dishes read and even look familiar, but often get tweaks that speak of an innate gift for reading food. Her coarse, rich parfait of Great Ocean Road duck livers gets scythed by fermented rhubarb, sweetened with its own reduced liquor. Who knew? See also the ever-evolving grain salad. One night, barley and lentils are mixed with both fresh and gently pickled cucumbers, fragrant amaranth leaves and spoonfuls of fresh ricotta. A blizzard of fresh horseradish gives the whole lot serious vim." (15/20)
John Lethlean found style and substance at Orso in Adelaide in his reviewfor The Weekend Australian Magazine. "Whole flounder gets “Jospered” to the perfect degree and served with a caramelised lemon sauce, chewy greens (like cavolo nero) and house “XO” made with pancetta, parmesan, air-dried tuna and porcini, touched with white balsamic for subtle sweetness to balance all that umami. A knockout. Even a side salad of witlof with crushed orange, chive and honey dressing is special. It’s an impressive kitchen, using good gear and their heads, yet the boss is nowhere to be seen. He’s recruited well." (4/5)
What's to come...
Chiswick Gin on the Lawn: 27 February
Orange F.O.O.D. Week Launch at Three Blue Ducks Rosebery: 4 March
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival: 8-24 March
Tasting Australia: 5-14 April
Orange F.O.O.D. Week: 5-14 April
Noosa Food & Wine Festival: 16-20 May
The Cru is reading...
Korsha Wilson's intriguing piece, A Critic for All Seasons, which poses the question: "What would restaurant criticism look like if it represented diners like me?" It's an absolutely fascinating and insightful read, opening our eyes to the blindspots of white, male food critics. Read it on Eater.