All female chef line-up to #CookforSyria. SBS
Hospitality industry holds its collective breath as premier orders review of NSW lockout laws.smh.com.au
Good Food's half year review. The restaurant things its food writers love and loathe, and what they can't wait for.
Let Skye Gyngell cook you lunch next week, thanks to Two Good. Broadsheet
Louis Tikaram returns to Sydney. delicious.
The nutritional value of cow's milk alternatives. SBS
Red wine not that good for you after all. The Times
Joe Beef and the excesses of restaurant culture. The New Yorker
Inside the shady world of truffle fraud. Eater
Drone food delivery on a wing and a prayer. Fine Dining Lovers
John Lethlean headed to the Apple Isle, reviewing Faro at MONA for The Weekend Australian Magazine. "The food? It’s occasionally superb: I’m looking at you, chargrilled Bass Strait octopus served in a mod/rustic dish with a sherry caramel, green olives, a garlic pangrattato-like crumble on top and a coil of almond cream. It’s the one dish where it all comes together: the produce, cooking method and balance of acid with lipids and sweetness. But mostly, Faro is unremarkable. Kingfish pastrami in a vaguely Spanish salad with creme fraiche and a buttermilk pikelet doesn’t achieve that balancing act, and the spices are insipid." (3/5)
Terry Durack was at Kitchen by Mike for SMH Good Food "McEnearney and head chef Jeffrey de Rome make the food feel very country. The roasted Tasmanian free-range chicken leg and thigh are golden and crisp-skinned, served with wilted broccoli and a splodge of nutty romesco sauce. Cucumber salad with soy and ginger is both cooling and chilli-spiked, while an Indian-spiced cauliflower and chickpea salad would have been more enjoyable warm rather than cold." His only gripe was having to re-queue for pudding. (14.5/20)
Gemima Cody reviewed Rising Embers for The Age Good Food. It's the newest outlet in the Dainty Sichuan empire. "Given the dozen other Dainty outlets now scratch most itches you could have for the cuisine, Rising Embers mostly sticks to giving you things to work on that grill. The menu is sectioned into seafoods, Kobe or Australian beef, lamb, pork or vegetables, all with marinated or fresh options and usually a thrill. From the poultry section comes a clutch of braised duck heads, while pork offers pieces of chestnut-stuffed chitterlings (the tender lower intestine)." (14/20)
David Matthews was one of the first to put Ben Devlin's Pipit through its paces for Gourmet Traveller. "A week in, Devlin looks somewhat manic – the opening menu is called The Late Autumn, Late Restaurant, Running Late Menu – but it's a controlled mania, driven, determined. And he knows how to lean on his skills and the relationships he's developed to get early dishes over the line. The simplest of canapés – cucumbers, wing beans, baby radishes, and young angled gourd from nearby Boon Luck Farm, sliced to order and piled into a bowl with a dab of almond cream – shows confidence in the quality of his suppliers. An éclair-like "finger bun" piped full with mullet cream and topped with blobs of sweet-sour Brazilian cherry shows the kitchen's confidence in their technique, the crisp shell collapsing to the bite, cream spilling."
What's to come...
Vivid Sydney: until 15 June
End of harvest party, Unico Zelo: 31 May
Good Food Month Melbourne: June
Frida Las Chin Chin – Smoke and Mirrors: 12 - 29 June
Winter Fire Festival, Orange: 2-4 August
The Curated Plate, Sunshine Coast: 8-11 August
Seafood Series with Lennox Hastie and Rick Stein at Bannisters Port Stephens: 11 August
#CookforSyria event at Nomad: 12 August
The Cru is reading...
Richard Giullliatt's fascinating profile in The Weekend Australian of Bruce Pascoe, author of the acclaimed Dark Emu, which is being published in two new editions, for primary and secondary school students. As Giulliatt notes, "The book’s final pages are an impassioned treatise that argues Australia could heal from its racial scars and secure its ecological future by adopting indigenous systems of governance and landcare. Get rid of wheat and grow native grass; eat kangaroo instead of cow; replace capitalism with “Aboriginalism”. It’s a gospel Pascoe now preaches passionately in his public appearances, detailing his own efforts to cultivate kangaroo grass and daisy yams on [his] small farming block in Mallacoota." It's a great read, as is Dark Emu itself.