Good Weekend's best brunches around the country.
Australia's minimum wage just went up... a bit. Hospitality Magazine
Second best: underrated cheaper meat cuts and what to do with them. Good Food
Look back in hunger: Stokehouse celebrates 30 years. Good Food
Lotus returns, for a short time only. Broadsheet
ACME to close at the end of June. Gourmet Traveller
Are online food delivery services making us obese? Daily Telegraph
Jay Z reaches billionaire status and invests in cookies. Food & Wine
The authenticity myth, and keeping food "real" in movies. Eater
John Lethlean was somewhat intrigued by Pilot in Canberra for The Weekend Australian Magazine. "Pilot is a young restaurant in many senses: wines, clientele, ideas, owners. The food is young, too. Light on meat proteins, emphasis on vegetables, plenty of fermented flavours, acidic notes, salt. Interestingly, no indigenous ingredients. It fits a Scandinavian/post-Noma narrative, which means a lot of people won’t exactly love it." He enjoyed it though. (3.5/5)
Terry Durack went underground, reviewing new Vietnamese eatery Forty Licks, for SMH Good Food. "Manton's updated banh bot loc dumplings have that translucent, slightly glutinous skin you get with tapioca flour; bouncy with king prawn and wild scallop meat from WA's Abrolhos Islands. It's a well-judged upgrade that plays off the tangy nuoc cham sauce, crisp fried shallots and chives. Don't order banh xeo and expect the large Saigon pancakes more commonly seen in Sydney... Here, they're sent out flat, topped with bean sprouts, galangal, rau ram (Vietnamese mint), pork floss and king prawn, and crisp enough to break into sharp shards." (14/20)
Reviewing for The Age Good Food, Gemima Cody found the Belle-Epoque Stamford Park in Rowville more like an interactive theatre set than a restaurant. "Grandfather clocks, balloon back chairs and cut crystal glassware abound." She says just a little more finesse in the kitchen would take the food from fine to fantastic. "Is the sweetness of a Jerusalem artichoke soup the soulmate for intensely earthy Manjimup truffle? The jury's out, but perfectly soft, sweet golden scallops with a smoky, spicy eggplant sambal peppered with chorizo is a relationship I can get behind." (13.5/20)
What's to come...
Vivid Sydney: until 15 June
Dark MOFO, Hobart: 6-23 June
Good Food Month Melbourne: June
Frida Las Chin Chin – Smoke and Mirrors: 12-29 June
Winter Fire Festival, Orange: 2-4 August
The Curated Plate, Sunshine Coast: 8-11 August
Seafood Series with Lennox Hastie and Rick Stein at Bannisters Port Stephens: 11 August
#CookforSyria event at Nomad: 12 August
This week our content director Sally Webb shares her thoughts on how writing a book can really help chefs define themselves.
"Writing a book can really help a chef define who they are and what
their point of difference is in a crowded market. However getting a publishing deal - or at least a decent one - isn't easy these days in Australia. If you're approaching commercial publishers you'll need a strong proposal to nut out what your book might be about, and what
your story is. Self-publishing is also an option either independently or
with the help of partners to dilute production costs."