Anthony Huckstep says Bentley's latest incarnation is its most satisfying in his review for delicious. on Sunday. "This is beautiful ego-free cooking, and it makes for wonderful eating. Camel’s milk curd tempers curls of shaved watermelon radish and plum. The twang of muntrie relish and fun of fermented saltbush make great allies of pastrami, while sliced and diced kingfish benefits from sweet Cape gooseberries. Exquisite snapper thrives on the interplay of pickled pumpkin and pepita, and at dessert freeze-dried and fresh pineapple, olive oil ice-cream, caramelised lactose and a pineapple beer reduction deliver an almost posh cheesecake moment." (4/5)
John Lethlean reviewed Hotel Centennial for The Weekend Australian Magazine. "Flatbreads – ovoid, blistered, charry yet pliable, finished with olive oil – come out of a wood oven to be teamed with a variety of stuff, such as a superb babaghanoush-ish smoky eggplant dip dressed with pomegranate, olive oil, parsley and a splash of fruity molasses. The food is brutally unpretentious: a chunk of superb hot-smoked ocean trout, for example, plonked on the plate with a dollop of drained yoghurt, bread and butter pickles, cooked and pickled beetroot and fronds of fresh dill. It’s a picnic for the outsourcing generation." (3.5/5)
Terry Durack was at "mid-market Middle Eastern" Lillah in Lane Cove for SMH Good Food. "The best way to start is to share an Old City platter ($19), a paper-lined metal tray bearing – you name it – fried cauliflower with baba ghanoush, crunchy little falafel with smoked tahini, hummus and pickles, Lebanese olives, smoked almonds, flatbreads, pickles and deep-fried calamari with warm, charred lemon for squeezing. The dainty oval saucers, the generosity, the pick-and-peck: it's an immediate welcome mat of food." (13/20)
Gemima Cody visited Laura, the fine diner at Pt Leo Estate, for The Age Good Food and loved it. "Kick-off sees local hand-milled flour turned wholemeal brioche. It's nutty, egg-rich and barely sweet, like a savoury cake, served with a luminous olive oil from just beyond the gates. Then, round one, a mushroom that almost isn't. The fibrous, almost meaty lion's mane 'shroom is fried and glazed in a salty-sweet teriyaki-style liquor until earthy, chewy and caramelised. It's crazy richness tugged back into opening dish territory by an acid-bright beetroot liquor, and a mixed dice of abalone and button mushrooms, which add mellow and fruity notes. Welcome to lunch." (17/20)
Simon Thomsen also reviewed Laura and sibling Pt Leo Estate for Business Insider claiming them collectively to be the year's most exciting dining destination. "What makes Phil Wood so remarkable at Pt Leo Estate after several years working with Neil Perry at Rockpool is that his menu and ideas have arrived so fully formed... His cooking embodies the qualities of the sculptures you can see from the dining rooms – whimsy, beauty, intrigue, at times intimate and in other moments, monumental. There’s opulence and elegance too. He’s brought a fierce gaze to what’s local, and transformed it with an alchemy that would be the envy of Hogwarts... The “modern” dish is the opulent standout. Half a potato (might be Dutch Cream, might be Nicola, will be local) is made creamy-salty-sweet thanks to pistachio praline with cream and miso, caviar and Yarra Valley trout roe piled on top and the volume turned up to 11 by a chive beurre blanc. I can count on one hand the dishes I’ve eaten around the world that are this good – and the bill was often treble Laura’s".
Australian camel milk is definitely a thing. Good Food
Besha Rodell mourns the disappearance of the corner milk bar. The New York Times
The restaurant industry's war on plastic. Good Food
Foodora being sued by employment watchdog for alleged sham contracts. Business Insider
Hospitality leads retail turnover rise. The Shout
DIY toast of the town. The Age
The food world is mourning the loss of one of its most original voices with the death last week of Anthony Bourdain. We don't need to add to what has been said already about the man who found the heart of kitchen life whether at a roadside stall in Vietnam or in the world’s fanciest restaurants. Grub Street and Eater have compiled tributes, with Good Food sharing thoughts from Australian chefs and food media. We’ve been re-reading The New Yorker piece, Don’t Eat Before Reading This, that started it all. He was a unique talent, one of the best.
The World's 50 Best has announced the 2018 list of restaurants ranked from 51 to 100. Brae in Birregurra is at No 58, falling 14 places from last year. Attica is expected to be the only Australian restaurant in the top 50 when the list is announced in Bilbao next week.
April Bloomfield has officially severed her relationship with longtime collaborator Ken Friedman.Eater